Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.
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